Hitchhiker, vegan, desert rat. Interested in dismantling oppressive structures and building intentional communities. Feel free to contact me on Trustroots if you are in my local area and need a place to stay- I'm always happy to help out fellow hitchhikers.
Emily and Ruby picked us up at Alpline Visitor Center after a very short wait - they were willing to drop us off at the park entrance. Ruby is a park volunteer who was living in the park and Emily was visiting for the weekend. They met while peak bagging - they climb fourteeners! - and have been friends for years. I had been struggling with nausea from the altitude and Emily shared that she was working to re acclimate to the higher elevations in order to get back into mountaineering after an injury. We talked about fear, risk, and ego and how it influences our choices as women (hiking, hitchhiking) - such a great conversation! Emily also shared her physical therapy experience and encouraged me to pursue it re: addressing an old ankle injury that has been preventing me from doing thru hiking.
We had caught a bus to the north end of Boulder. We walked out to the Northwest intersection of Broadway and 36th - thumbs were out for less than a minute when an outdoorsy type in his mid twenties pulled over. He said he was going to Lyons. He was from Iowa and had moved to Boulder a year prior -- Claire chatted with him about living in Boulder and hiking in the area. He was super excited to pick up hitchhikers because he was about to depart for a bikepacking trip in Iceland with his girlfriend later that night... he knew hitchhiking might be in his future. He revealed just before dropping us off he had actually not been intending to go to Lyons that morning -- he had been planning to go for a run much closer to Boulder -- but had offered Lyons because he was so into the idea of picking up hitchhikers and helping us out. A fun ride!
We waited four or five minutes on the shoulder of the highway in Lyons when a couple in their mid thirties pulled over. Brenda and Jorge are from Monterrey, Mexico and had been living in Cheyenne, Wyoming for two or so years. Jorge's job moves him around to different projects, he is an iron worker who works on massive infrastructure projects. Most of his coworkers prefer to live in Fort Collins for the social life available, but he prefers the quiet, early bedtime vibes of Cheyenne and the short commute. He had won his national park pass in a contest at work and it was his first time using it. They were really sweet and happy to help us out. Before going into the park we took a side trip to drive by the Stanley Hotel, featured in the movie The Shining.
We waited 8-10 minutes before Jay stopped for us in his electric vehicle. Jay is a Chinese national from near Xi'an who has been working in the states for many years. He has also worked in the UAE. We wanted to head toward Alpine Visitor Center and Jay was going that way but making scenic stops -- we got to be tourists together, looking at majestic vistas and even doing a mile roundtrip hike on the Tundra Communities Trail. Jay was really pleasant company; we spent a few hours together and always had something interesting to talk about -- his life in China, rural vs. populated areas, living in Colorado, and the beauty of the national park.
One of those rare rides that lasts more than ten hours! Victor was on his way home to North Dakota after spending some time with his mother southeast of Phoenix. A Mexican national, he has lived in the states on and off for forty years. We discussed permaculture, politics, religion, family, and dreams for the future. He was pulled over and blatantly profiled while we were driving through a small Utah town. The cop asked him to exit the vehicle, ran his info, and talked to him for a while. He then approached me to ensure I wasn't "a missing person." I assured him I was hitchhiking voluntarily, that I wasn't being trafficked, and that I did not need my ID checked. After a bit more time we were allowed to go on our way. We stopped for Vietnamese food in Grand Junction (Victor's first time eating Pho. He loved it!) and peaches in Palasade. We ran into some car difficulties there, but he was able to troubleshoot and we were back on the road fairly quickly. He drove me all the way to Idaho Springs -- from there, I took a $5 bus to Denver.
It's been six years since I last hitchhiked and I had some nerves about it. Luis picked me up after about a 20 minute wait, and I felt totally comfortable with him. He is a landscaper who often does work in Fountain Hills, and he said he stopped because he had been praying to God for guidance and then saw me on the side of the road. We discussed his family and health.
Jan and Julie, two amazing Diné sisters with so many good stories. The vibes were great and they drove out of their way to get me to Payson. Stopped for me out of sisterhood and also because Jan's pastor preached about helping strangers on Sunday.
Roger drove me from Payson to the grocery store in Pine. He is retired but still works as a substitute teacher. He is working with Arizona legislators to pass a bill advocating for multiple perspectives to be taught in science classes regarding evolution (he advocates for the teaching of intelligent design alongside evolution).
Shannon pulled over going in the opposite direction, got out of her car, and started having a conversation with me from across the street. She is a trail angel for the Arizona Trail and had advice on where I should hitchhike from in Pine. She ended up driving me a bit back down the road to what she felt was a better spot; she also recommended I take Lake Mary Road to Flagstaff instead of the I-17, which is the route I have historically gone.
I was at the spot Shannon had suggested for about ten or so minutes and wasn't super feeling it (a portent about her other suggestion, Lake Mary Road). Two local men in a golf course moseyed on by, they had been at the hardware store. They were just going a ways up the road, and I decided to hop on. Not sure if I've ever hitched a golf cart or not, but down the highway together we went, to another better spot. I couldn't tell if they were lovers or brothers or friends. They asked if I travel with a gun.
I wasn't feeling Lake Mary Road. It was beautiful but it was difficult for cars to pull off, and they weren't stopping. Not enough traffic and most of it did not seem like it was through traffic to Flag. After an hour and a half I turned around and decided to hitch back south toward the route I knew better. A thunderstorm briefly threatened, but I only had to wait a few minutes before a car pulled off. It was an older man from the valley who had a summer home in the area -- like most of my rides so far. He had a mild speech impediment and worked as an engineer building luxury homes. I asked him how much his most expensive build cost -- "65 million dollars."
Charles Smith -- "Yes, it's an alias" -- picked me up after about thirty seconds of waiting. He seemed like he was in his 80's, though he insisted his age was 45, and that mine was 28 (the maximum acceptable age for a woman). He was almost certainly a liar and enjoyed having a captive audience for the drive. A Vietnam war veteran, he told me he has personal sway with Donald Trump. He also claimed to have five masters degrees, two doctorates, and no high school diploma.
At this point I had been in 103+ degree weather (40+ C) since 6am. It was 3:30 and the hottest time of day. I waited an hour near the on ramp -- three cool, friendly cars stopped headed for the local hippie town of Cottonwood. But I really just wanted a ride straight to Flag. I regrouped in a nearby Starbucks: charged my phone, used the bathroom, made a sign, and cooled down in air conditioning. After an hour long break I returned to the on ramp... one more hour of waiting before two men in their thirties pulled over. They were driving up to Flag to meet some friends and go barhopping. They regaled me with stories of hitchhiking to high school while growing up on the Navajo reservation. The vibe was chill. They dropped me off downtown at a restaurant I wanted to revisit.
I was standing on the edge of the highway for less than a minute when I saw a minivan approaching. Two white 30-something ladies with horrified looks on their faces were in the front, and I could tell they were not the type to stop. I put my thumb down... moments later, the van pulled over! Guess I was wrong... I start running up to it, and the side door slides open. My oldest sister is in the back seat! She and her church friends were hiking Tonto Natural Bridge that day. There are millions of people in the Phoenix area, and my sister never drives that road! The odds that she would pass me while I was on the roadside were sooo slim. Anyway, she and her friends drove me North and I had some unexpected sister hang outs.
Andrea was an older woman who was very excited to pick up a female hitchhiker. She said it reminded her of her youth, when she was more free and less afraid.
It was close to sunset and I really wanted to make it to Moab / I wasn't feeling the stealth camping vibe in Monticello. No one was stopping. A thirty something year old white man in a black, beat up sedan stopped. The vibes weren't great but I decided to take the ride. About twenty minutes in he propositioned me. I got out of the car and ended up stealth camping in a random field. I was pretty angry at myself for taking the ride at all.
An older man named Dennis picked me up. He was driving home to Washington State, having burried his wife of 47 years near her family home in California. He talked about their marriage, their three daughters, how proud he is of his family, his religion (he's Catholic). We shared travel stories and he was incredibly kind.
Payam got off the interstate and back on (turned around to pick me up). What a great and joyful ride!!! We discussed farming, intentional communities, his experience as an Iranian American, activism, life... what a wonderful human. I will definitely be in contact with him in the future.
Matt, whose partner is doing community rebuilds, offered to give me a ride north of town. Really sweet guy, we talked about intentional communities and visions for the future.
A rad couple in a jeep turned around to pick me up. They had just been hitchhiking themselves recently, after a backpacking trip. We discussed hiking in Southern Utah and Colorado. They were excited to help me on my journey- really sweet people.
Four men with a pickup truck stopped. They were heading to work at the dinosaur quarry. I hopped in the back. They offered me water, told me to stay safe, and warned me about Utah cops.
After a long wait in the desert, Annie picked me up and rearranged her car in order to give me a ride. What an amazing woman!! She had just finished up a trip paddle boarding down the green river, and had so many wonderful travel stories. From her time in Kenya to her work as a fiber artist to her childhood growing up in a Mormon household, there was so much that was shared. I can't wait for our paths to cross again!
Local who works at Hell's Backbone (restaurant) picked me up. We discussed politics, history, and hiking in the area. We also stopped at a roadside spring he knew about to fill up our water bottles!
Had a really fantastic conversation with this kind man named Eli. He picked me up in an old car with no windows, very little interior, and a friendly dog inside. We discussed Montessori and Waldorf education, working as teachers, our experiences in Southern Utah. It was his 6 month old daughter Theresa's birthday.
An ex military helicopter pilot named Buzz picked me up. Regailed me with stories from his youth, and about how much Arizona has changed over the decades.
A woman pulled over and told me to hop in the back of her pickup. She sped the whole way to the I-17 and handed me a Bible tract when she dropped me off.
Another pickup truck. This one belonged to a hunter who wanted to help me out. He drove me to Flagstaff and offered to buy me McDonald's if I was hungry.
Matt, a young libertarian picked me up. We discussed anarchy, politics, feminism, and he was open minded and engaging. He is ex-military, grew up conservative. Interested in quitting his job and sailing around the world. Has hitchhiked from time to time in the past.
Amélie, a woman from Paris, picked me up. She lives in Mexico most of the year working as a scuba divimg instructor. Now she's on a solo roadtrip around the states. "I feel like the world is my home."
I had the longest wait of the day in this spot. It wasn't the optimal time to be heading East, most of the traffic was heading to the national park. A Russian hitchhiker named Maxim walked up to me while I was trying to catch a ride. He said the U.S. is the worst place for hitchhiking-- very contrary to my experience. He then said that the fastest way to hitchhike is as a man/woman couple. I disagreed... having experienced both solo, pairs, trios, etc. by far hitchhiking as a solo woman is the fastest, followed by a pair of women, followed by a woman and a man together. It was weird he was denying this experience, since he has obviously never hitchhiked as a woman. Anyway, he decided to continue down the highway. A bit later a man stopped and offered to drive me to Boulder- he is working a construction job there. I let him know about Maxim down the road, but he wasn't interested in stopping for a second hitchhiker. The ride was fine- quiet- until around Escalante, when the driver pulled out some beers and wanted to start drinking. I decided to get out of the car. At that point it was close to sunset.
A few cars passed me until a father/daughter duo stopped. Nice people, they weren't going far, but they new of a sweet dispersed camping spot near the highway up ahead. They dropped me off there as the sun was setting.
I waited for hours in the cold rain- several cars stopped for me, but all were heading to Moab (south) rather than my direction, north. The spot was less than ideal, and I stayed for too long. Eventually, I decided to get a ride down to Moab and try from there- Leftie gave me a ride the few miles into town, and I warmed up a bit before walking back out to the highway,
Ellie turned around to pick me up and she was amazing! She drove 30 miles out of her way to drop me in a good spot, ensuring I'd only have to wait for one ride (rather than two). She was just returning to Colorado after doing humanitarian work on the Mexican/Texas border. We talked about border-related activism, spirituality, approaching fear, and utopic world visions. A lovely ride.
I had been dropped off in the middle of the desert, no facilities for 40+ miles in any given direction. The sun was on the verge of setting. Six cars passed me in 50 minutes- the seventh stopped. Joan and Mike were from Minnesota and were edging toward the end of their road trip. Nice people, I gave them recommendations for what to do in the area, and we discussed history and travel.
